After identifying the problem with standard shaped ‘biners, where one rope climbs over the other when using them as a pulley, I decided to find a solution to the potential for jamming this causes. The V-shape of standard ones forces the ropes together so the answer is providing a less accentuated shape and allowing the ropes to sit side by side. Even without the climbing over issue, this means a lot less friction and smoother running ropes. A lot of people have been moving to oval ‘biners for this very reason. For this reason, I decided to restrict my search to these.
Oddly, almost all the truly oval ones seemed to be locking. I find locking ones fiddly and awkward, some even have the annoying ability to pinch skin. I have never had a problem with non-locking ones but I see there’s some debate on Fetlife with a survey and even an incident report where a gate opened. I can see with some hybrid rigs, where both a ring and biners are used as suspension points, how the gate could be opened. I pretty much always use a ring or bamboo anyway but sometimes like to use a ‘biner pulley to make life easier. That said, Nina’s 40 or so kg doesn’t really require any assistance.
I did manage to find one non-locking oval design but I discounted it because I was looking for a snag-free gate. Too often have I cause one ply of a loose laid rope on the hooked end of the typical mechanism, see below.
Finally, I came across these climbing rated carabiners which combine a good oval shape with a completely snag-free non-locking gate (see header image and below). They even come in sexy black or the more classic plain alloy. I’m going to get some to check out and probably a few other interesting climbing rated products from the same supplier. If you don’t mind the hooked gate type, they also do a perfectly oval version at a lower price. If they are as good as they seem, I hope to add them to my shop shortly.
